Sunday, May 22, 2011

Rhubarb Streusel Muffins

Rhubarb Streusel Muffins
I'm a copycat! There are some blogs that I could spend the rest of my life imitating. I had rhubarb in my freezer from a month ago when it was fresh locally but I had no time to bake, and it has been constantly in the back of my mind. So when Deb from Smitten Kitchen posted this recipe for rhubarb streusel muffins, I knew I was set.

Sometimes I think Smitten Kitchen is the new Dorie (who was the new Julia).

Saturday, May 14, 2011

East Coast Coffee Cake (vegan)

East Coast Coffee Cake (vegan)
This morning, I had no eggs in the fridge. It was too early and I was too lazy to go anywhere to buy eggs, so I decided that today was a good day to try another vegan recipe! I had tofu in the fridge too, so started out my vegan recipe searching by looking for a muffin or scone with tofu in it. Somewhere along the way I found a post on Vegansaurus for East Coast Coffee Cake, which they found in one of Isa Chandra Moskowitz's many classy vegan cookbooks. I swear that Isa has written half the vegan recipes out there worth trying. I read the comments carefully and made a few changes, which I present to you here. But please do visit the original recipe and check out Ms. Moskowitz's book Vegan Brunch for even more amazing ideas.

East Coast Coffee Cake

Ingredients:

For the topping:
1/2 cup flour
1/3 cup brown sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
3 tbsp canola oil

For the cake:
3/4 cup soy milk
1 tsp. apple cider vinegar (I used distilled white because otherwise I had rice or balsamic, meh)
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup canola oil
1 tsp. vanilla
1 1/4 flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt

Instructions
Preheat over to 375F. Grease a pan equal to or smaller than an 8" square. I used a 5x8 one because I wanted it a little thicker. Mix the milk and vinegar together and set aside to curdle for five minutes.

Make the topping:
Mix together flour, sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg. Pour in 2 tbsp of the oil and toss with a fork, add additional tbsp until mixture is evenly moistened.

Make the cake:
In a large bowl, mix milk mixture, sugar, canola oil and vanilla. Stir in flour, baking powder and salt, and mix until smooth.

Pour batter into pan. Evenly sprinkle the topping over the batter.

Bake 25 minutes before checking it for the first time. Mine was perfect at 25. You might consider lowering the temperature to 350, which is what would usually be called for in a baked good.

I could taste that this was oil instead of butter, but it has a beautiful crumb and makes a delicious breakfast treat!

Sunday, May 08, 2011

Chocolate Dreams (and would we really call this cake?)

Chocolate "Cake"
The dark chocolate drops I got from Black Mountain Chocolate were never going to last very long. I couldn't get them off of my mind. I wanted to make a dessert that would really feature the flavor of the chocolate!

I was remembering this episode of America's Test Kitchen that tried making the most chocolatey cupcake ever. A lot of what they discovered stuck with me - butter and other dairy can mask chocolate's flavor, etc. In the end, I didn't want to use a recipe this complicated with different kinds of chocolate, when what I wanted to do was pay homage to the actual chocolate I had brought home.

I stumbled across a post on David Lebovitz's blog about his Chocolate Idiot Cake, that John Scharffenberger used to like because of the way he featured his chocolate. That idea sold me on it, but I knew I didn't have enough chocolate to make the full recipe. I have this cute little 6-inch springform pan, and basically made 3/5 of the recipe. If you're doing the math, that was roughly 6 oz of the chocolate drops, 4 tbsp butter, 3 eggs, and 1/2 cup + 2 tbsp sugar. It worked out okay. I still ended up baking it the entire hour and fifteen minutes before it was really set in the middle, but in a water bath it would have been difficult to burn.

Chocolate "Cake"
I'm still mulling over two questions about this particular baking experience. #1 - Would I call this a cake? Well, nope. It has absolutely no flour and no crumb. It has the texture of cheesecake but is lighter in your mouth. It is buttery. Maybe more like French silk pie filling. Or a whipped ganache, except firm. Ha, well, I'm beginning to see why Mr. Lebovitz called it cake. What other name would work?

#2 - Did this satisfy my requirement of showcasing the chocolate?
I'm not sure about this one. It was absolutely delicious, to be sure, but melting the chocolate down and adding more fat and sweetness does take some of the original bite and roundness and mouthfeel away. What I would like to do is line up a bunch of different chocolates and make 5 versions of the same dessert, using singular chocolate in each, and then compare. Next time.

Contemplating Waffles

Waffles
I still have not fully Conquered the Waffle. You know, found that one recipe that puts any other waffle to shame. The one that is crispy and tender and flavorful and stands up to fruit and whipped cream and syrup and anything else you might pour on top of it.

I went searching online this morning. One of my favorite internet searches to do when looking for a good recipe is just to add the word "best" to anything. So I found a post on SeriousEats.com called The Greatest Waffle Recipe Ever but I had been hoping for something with buttermilk. As I read the comments, several people said that the key was folding in whipped egg whites, and several mentioned a recipe from Cook's Illustrated. That is the recipe I made, although Cook's Illustrated's site tends to lock down until you have a paid account. So I will help you out and link you to what looks like half of the recipe in a comment in the blog.

A few of my comments, and why I think I am not quite to the best waffle yet. I did like the slight crunch of the cornmeal, but this added a savory element that reminded me of the Creamed Mushrooms on Cornmeal Waffles recipe I made over on my somewhat neglected cooking blog. I loved that recipe, in fact seeing it makes me want to make it again, but I'm just not sure I want that getting in my head when I'm eating a sweet waffle. Another comment said you have to add vanilla, so I did at the end of the waffle making, and honestly I'm torn. Vanilla automatically makes it sweet and aromatic, but it may throw off the balance a little.

I think I may have thrown everything off from an authentic tasting anyway by storing them in a 200F oven while I baked them all. That always is a downfall of waffles, the fact that only one can be made at a time.

So tell me your waffle tricks and favorite recipes!

Thursday, May 05, 2011

Mexican Chocolate Ganache Tart

Slice of Mexican Chocolate Ganache Tart
Happy Cinco de Mayo! My favorite story that came from the Cocoa Roastery Tour was the connection to Mexico in how the founder of Black Mountain Chocolate got started. I held this in my head for a week or so, knowing today was coming up, intending to combine all the traditional flavors of Mexican chocolate into a dessert.

After recent forays into gluten-free baking, I had some almond meal on my hands. I came across a recipe for a tart crust using it solely, no other flours, and adapted it for the dessert. I didn't find it to be as successful as I would have liked, but I will include it until I play around more. Maybe just a pâte brisée would have been better, but I wanted the crunch and flavor of the almonds without having them interfering with the texture of the chocolate.

So here is the recipe I made. It may need further tweaking.

Mexican Chocolate Ganache Tart

Mexican Chocolate Ganache Tart
Makes one 8-9" tart

Crust:
2 cups almond meal/flour
1/4 cup powdered sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
1 pinch of salt
1 egg white
1/4 cup butter, melted

Mix ingredients with a fork and break up any large chunks of almond. Press into a tart pan with removable sides. Bake at 400 for 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool completely.

Mexican Chocolate Ganache:
10 oz. Black Mountain Chocolate Dark Chocolate Drops*
1 1/4 cups regular whipping cream
1-2 cinnamon sticks
1-2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper

Heat cream in small saucepan over medium heat until steaming and a little bubbly, but do not allow to boil. Mix in spices and let the cinnamon stick steep for about 5 minutes.

Put the chocolate drops into a small mixing bowl. Pour the hot cream (through a strainer!) over them and let sit for 5 minutes, giving them time to melt gently. Stir together until smooth and pour into cooled crust. Ganache will set up in a few hours at room temperature or in 45 minutes or so in the fridge.

Slice into small wedges and serve with whipped cream if desired. (This is rich so small is a good idea).

*You can chop up other types of dark chocolate, but are you sure you want to? ;)

Black Mountain Chocolate and Cocoa Roastery - Swannanoa, NC

Inside the Cocoa Roastery
Last weekend, Nathaniel and I had the opportunity to tour the Cocoa Roastery at Black Mountain Chocolate. It was a special treat to meet one of the handful of artisanal chocolate makers in the entire country and to hear about his creative journey, as well as having a tour of how the chocolate is actually made. With a little pleading of some of the other tour members, we even got to taste a tiny batch of cocoa beans that had been grinding in a smaller machine that he learned cocoa roasting on (surprisingly delicious despite being incredibly bitter). I left giddy. Maybe it was the aroma of chocolate in the air. Maybe it was getting to witness chocolate at its source. I left with ideas whirling through my head of what I wanted to try.

Black Mountain Fresh Chocolate Bar
Have you ever tasted fresh chocolate? I mean really fresh, from bean to bar? At the end of the tour we tasted the most recent batch (labeled 70% cacao) and bought some to bring home too. To me, fresh chocolate from Black Mountain Chocolate is slightly fruity with this roundness to it. The bars have a great shine and snap to them, just as they should.

If you are close to North Carolina, you should sign up for a Cocoa Roastery. These smaller tours are a new thing, but it looks like they'll be doing them every Saturday through the end of the year. You can also follow them in Facebook and Twitter.

Stay tuned for experiments with the chocolate that I brought home with me. I'm not going to lie - it is tempting to just eat it plain rather than risk muting the flavor in some kind of baked good. But I had some ideas....

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Welcome Spring!

Fresh Strawberry Cake
I know this is the second recipe in a row I have linked to from Two Peas and Their Pod, but when I saw this recipe I knew I'd make it the very first time I had my hand on local strawberries. Saturday, we went hiking a bit around the waterfalls of North Carolina around Brevard, and drove along the Blue Ridge Parkway to Asheville. People were selling boiled peanuts and strawberries everywhere, so we were happy to buy some of each!

This cake is simple, lovely, and flavorful. It is amazing what an hour in the oven does for strawberries. I used almond extract instead of vanilla, and I read in the comments on the blog the recipe comes from that adding orange or lemon zest was also tasty. Also, we ate this for breakfast. We have no shame. :)

Friday, April 22, 2011

Easter Candy Cookies

Vanilla Pudding Cookies
I follow a bunch of blogs, and Two Peas and Their Pod posted a chocolate pudding cookie the other day with mini robin eggs in them. It linked back to their vanilla pudding cookie recipe. I went searching for mini robins eggs and when I couldn't find any, bought a bag each of Reeses milk chocolate peanut butter eggs and Hershey milk chocolate eggs with candy shells. I decided to make the vanilla pudding cookies with the Hershey. The first few sheets had just the eggs but I was worried they weren't chocolatey enough, and added chocolate chips.

My student workers loved these cookies! They are soft and sweet and the big candy coated hunks of chocolate certainly didn't hurt! I have (not-so-secret) plans to make the chocolate version with the peanut butter eggs inside.

Speaking of pudding. Has everyone been watching Top Chef Masters? This last episode had Celina Tio and her chocolate "puddin'" and everyone kept saying "puddin'" without the "g" and it was making me crazy. Is there a technical difference between "puddin'" and "pudding?" Is "pudding" somehow trademarked? I wanted to strangle her. She should have been sent home just for using that word alone. Phew, okay, I feel better now.

Pudding isn't always bad. It is amazing in these cookies. Make them, add something interesting, and eat!

Monday, April 18, 2011

Pumpkin Gingerbread Pancakes

Pumpkin Gingerbread Pancakes (vegan, gluten free)
I started out intending to make one of the vegan, gluten-free recipes from BabyCakes Covers the Classics, but it was a lazy, rainy, weekend morning and I didn't have all the ingredients for any of the recipes. Vegan baking is challenge enough; gluten-free baking is crazy as far as what you need in your pantry. I had xantham gum a while back when I was experimenting with vegetarian marshmallows, but it had gone bad and got thrown out. I've never owned rice flour or arrowroot powder. I had sent N- to the store for gluten free flour mix and ended up with Bob's Red Mill GF Biscuit Mix, so I needed to do some experimenting.

I felt like I was pretty close to what the Gingerbread Pancakes recipe was going after, although I didn't have xantham gum, applesauce, or agave nectar. I read online that for simple baked goods like pancakes, the xantham gum wasn't really needed, but then realized it was in the biscuit mix. So, check! Applesauce was more of a mystery. I knew people often substituted applesauce for fat in recipes, but didn't want to add more fat, as the recipe already called for a 1/2 cup of melted coconut oil. After a little hunting around online, I found a site that said you could use pumpkin and applesauce interchangeably. I had pumpkin, so check! I didn't have agave nectar, but knew that you could sub agave nectar for granulated sugar at about a 2/3 ratio. There was already molasses in the recipe, so I used sugar less than was quite right, knowing we'd be putting maple syrup on top!

The pancakes I ended up making were absolutely delicious, once I had thinned the batter down enough that I was making pancakes instead of dough balls on the griddle. The bean flour in the biscuit mix added a nice hearty flavor to the fall flavors, and the pumpkin paired incredibly with the gingerbread flavors. With 1 tbsp ground ginger and 2 tbsp vanilla, these are high in flavor, just missing all the disagreeable ingredients that some people can't enjoy.

Pumpkin Gingerbread Pancakes
based loosely on BabyCakes' recipe for Gingerbread Pancakes

2 cups Bob's Red Mill GF Biscuit Mix
1 tbsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp ground cardamom
1/4 tsp ground cloves
2/3 cup canned pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling)
1/2 cup melted refined coconut oil, plus more for the pan
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup dark molasses
1 1/3 cup rice milk (started with 2/3 cup and kept adding)
2 tbsp vanilla extract

Whisk together dry ingredients. Add the wet ingredients (and pumpkin) and stir until batter is smooth. On a griddle over medium heat, grease with coconut oil. Working in batches, pour 1/4 cup batter into the pan for each pancake. Cook for 2 minutes, then flip and cook on the other side for 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining batter.

Monday, April 11, 2011

The Cook


I came across this poem and loved it, this is just the first half. The National Book Foundation has been doing features during National Poetry Month of the poets who have won the award in the past. Lisel Mueller won in 1981.

The Cook
After Vermeer

I
No wonder she thinks there's more
where everything came from

a girl as round as the jug
that never runs dry

her arms thick cream, her yellow bodice
filled with anticipation

the bread before her risen
in the same light in which she stands

(Lisel Mueller, from The Need to Hold Still)

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Dairy Free Strawberry Soup

Strawberry Soup
I've had David Leibovitz's "Vegan" Strawberry Ice Cream recipe bookmarked since last summer. I liked all the experimenting he had done, and was interested to try his non-dairy, pretty much non-fat strawberry ice cream recipe. At that point, strawberry season was long past in the south, and it seemed to deserve fresh berries.

Lately strawberries from Florida have started to show up in abundance in the stores. Local fruit is still a month away or so, but I couldn't wait. I bought the rice milk, decided to add 2 tbsp of the Kirsch to try to keep it from freezing too solid, and made it in one night. I did use the honey, so I won't call it vegan, since most vegans I know don't eat honey. So let's just be happy with calling it dairy-free!

It was delicious right out of the ice cream freezer, but was still ridiculously hard out of the freezer. This is just going to be a problem with homemade ice cream of all varieties until I start figuring out how to add additives (which I'd rather not). This recipe is probably more likely to get hard because there is no fat in it.

But then something miraculous happened. I had left it out to thaw, and ten minutes later it was still hard as a rock, so I kind of forgot about it. A few hours later, half of it was still a soft solid, but the rest was a beautiful soupy texture. Why throw it out? Strawberries, rice milk, sugar, honey, and kirsch make for pretty amazing strawberry soup. Plus it is getting warm but isn't quite ice cream weather. A chilled soup is just about perfect for the start of our strawberry season.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Daring Bakers March 2011 - Meringue Coffee Cake

Meringue Coffee Cake Closeup
The March 2011 Daring Baker’s Challenge was hosted by Ria of Ria’s Collection and Jamie of Life’s a Feast. Ria and Jamie challenged The Daring Bakers to bake a yeasted Meringue Coffee Cake. It seemed pretty simple, although I'd never thought to bake meringue inside of something else, and I had no idea how it would turn out.

I decided to make this with what I already had in my house, which meant my filling was orange zest, cardamom-sugar, hazelnuts, and chocolate chips. When the meringue bakes, most of it kind of absorbs into the nebulous center of the coffee cake (which is really more of a rich dough, almost like a brioche). There were a few crunchy parts that squeezed out between the cracks, and I liked that flavor. I wish there had been more of that texture inside, but I'm not sure how to make that happen!

Meringue Coffee Cake Slice

This is a great framework recipe that I'd love to play more with. Some of the savory versions people have been making look amazing too. Please click on the links at the top to see the recipe as posted by the hostesses.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Banana Bread (vegan)

Banana Bread (Vegan)
I was in San Diego a year ago for the Music Library Assoc, where I survived almost entirely on food purchased at Ocean Beach Peoples Food Co-op. I picked up their cookbook while I was there, and it has provided some great vegan recipes, something that has been on my mind lately.. I was thumbing through it tonight with my bunch of very ripe bananas in mind, and came across a recipe for banana bread that I had almost everything for. I adapted it a bit, and this is what I made:

Vegan Banana Bread
2 bananas + 1 cup chopped bananas
1/2 cup apple juice
1/3 cup vegetable oil
2/3 cup maple syrup
1 tsp lemon juice
2 tsp banana liqueur
2 cups all purpose flour
2/3 cup hazelnuts, chopped
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda

Preheat oven to 350. Mash the 2 whole bananas and mix with apple juice. Add the oil, maple syrup, lemon juice, and banana liqueur. Mix the dry ingredients except the nuts, then add to the wet ingredients and mix just until blended. Fold in the chopped bananas and walnuts. Place into a lightly oiled 8 x 3 1/2 x 2 1/2 inch pan and bake for 25-40 minutes or until done.

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Sparkle Ginger Cookies (Vegan)

Sparkle Ginger Cookies (vegan)
Sometimes recipes change hands between friends and you don't know where they came from, and this started as one of those instances. Delicious ginger cookies that happen to be vegan! I discovered they come from Vegan With a Vengeance, highly recommended. I didn't have turbinado sugar so I used holiday colored sugar, and it added a nice little crunch.

I have a co-worker who went vegan for Lent and I was feeling badly for all her negative experiences, so I decided to provide a positive one. Not everything vegan has to be a sacrifice! And especially not these.

Monday, March 07, 2011

Never Been to Paris

DSCN1275
I haven't been to Paris (I always have to say "yet" because I am an optimist) but books have let me travel there. The most recent was The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz, which was a great travel and foodie read about being an outsider in an amazing "and perplexing" city.

I have followed David Lebovitz in Twitter and Facebook for quite some time now, so I wasn't surprised to laugh along with his stories of awkward culture clashes and trash-day outfits, nor was I shocked to find delicious sounding recipes. I wasn't quite expecting that I'd feel inspired enough to attempt making macarons for the first time, just to feel like I was somehow close to being there. I haven't made it to any of the trendy NYC bakeries that have started offering French macarons, much less Ladurée in Paris, but I can now say I have made them for myself. They weren't exactly perfect, rather fugly in fact, but delicious and easy enough to attempt again.

Spiced Nuts
I have my eye on quite a few other recipes from The Sweet Life in Paris - there are some tasty sounding fig things and more fun things to do with meringue, as well as a blue cheese cake that I can't even taste in my head. I had the ingredients for spiced nuts on hand, so I whipped those up in between steps for the macarons. I think it is safe to say that David Lebovitz himself is no longer an outsider in Paris. He has provided insight into a culture that is known as unwelcoming but may just be misunderstood (or untolerated), and this would be a useful guide for anyone considering a visit.

Saturday, March 05, 2011

Bakery Review - Philly Cupcake - Philadelphia, PA

More cupcakes
Even if you didn't know you'd be passing by, it would be hard to miss Philly Cupcake. It is located on the busy and interesting corner of 12th and Chestnut in Philadelphia, and is brightly lit with eye-catching color and cupcakes in lit up china cabinets (there may have been chandeliers; I have to admit to being too dazzled to take enough pictures). Add to that later hours than you might expect (8 pm most nights!) and your eye is pulled in. This is one of the places I was taken on an evening bakery visiting spree with the friend I met at last year's Music Library Association Conference, who had already been a reader of my blog. Her taste was impeccable, and it is always better to go places with someone in the know. (Thanks Emily!)

Cupcakes from Philly Cupcake
A lot of cupcake places win on the visual aspect but then don't taste very good. I am happy to say this is not the case with Philly Cupcake. I got a half dozen that were tasted over the course of a week, but did get two chocolate coma cupcakes to give one away to a friend. In the picture, in the top row you see the classic chocolate cupcake with chocolate buttercream, something with chocolate and cherry (not listed on their website, may have been a seasonal/experimental one), and chocolate coma (wow, seriously, so chocolatey!). Bottom row: empty spot for chocolate coma #2, some kind of pistachio-rose cupcake with pistachio marzipan and strawberry buttercream, and black velvet with cream cheese icing. The black velvet was my favorite - a spicy but very tender chocolate cupcake!

Philly Cupcake also sells other treats like brownies, cookies, even pupcakes for dogs. There were vegan options but I neglected to try any of those flavors.

If you are visiting or live in Philadelphia, you might consider following them on Facebook or Twitter, where they often post new flavors, special deals, and other sugar-fueled excitement.

Tuesday, March 01, 2011

Scones & Bones & Crumpets

Crumpet
Scones & Bones (A Tea Shop Mystery) by Laura Childs comes out today! I was happy to receive an advanced readers copy, and immediately went to the back to see what recipes were included. The tea shop mysteries are fun to read, featuring Theodosia Browning, proprietor of a tea shop in Charleston, SC. If you want to start at the beginning, look for Death by Darjeeling.

I was happy to see a recipe for crumpets in Scones & Bones. They have always been on my to-make list, so I tried that recipe right away. Crumpets are also known as griddle cakes, and to me are the perfect cross between pancakes and English muffins. They have yeast, and the dough has to sit for a while, but they are not as bready as English muffins. I love how they are cooked simply in a frying pan or griddle and you never have to turn the oven on. I made two at a time in a pan, using the only two cookie cutters with handles that would work - half my crumpets were heart-shaped!

Homemade McGriddle
Crumpets are traditionally served with butter and jam or honey, but you don't have to start there! They also are great with savory spreads or used in a sandwich. I made an egg, cheese, and vegetarian bacon sandwich with mine, and since I was mimicking the McDonald's McGriddle, I added a dot of maple syrup. Strange but delicious!

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Raspberry White Chocolate Layer Cake

Baby Shower Cake
Yesterday was the baby shower for a good friend. Her name starts with an M, as does her yet-to-be-born baby girl. Pink was required, and dragonflies are the nursery theme, so I decided to combine the two. The new mom is a vegetarian, so I had originally planned to make some kind of fabulous non-gelatin strawberry bavarian cream layered masterpiece, but anyone who has read my baking disaster post about agar agar knows I have not yet conquered the sea vegetable beast. When I regrouped and went a different direction, I kept seeing raspberry and white chocolate, since I knew I'd be making white chocolate dragonflies.

Dimmer picture but better layers
The cake is really a combination of 3-4 recipes. The white cake layers come from Dorie Greenspan's Perfect Party Cake from Baking: From My Home to Yours, which really is perfect (I've blogged it in March 2008 and July 2009 in various versions I've made). This time I made the cake layers according to the recipe, so they were light and slightly lemony. I wanted white chocolate in the cake as well, so I made the white chocolate whipped cream that is part of the Black and White Chocolate Cake in the same cookbook.

Raspberry Layer Cake
When I assembled the cake, I split the layers, spread each with raspberry jam, topped that with white chocolate whipped cream, and sprinkled that with fresh raspberries. I made the raspberry buttercream from The Modern Baker by Nick Malgieri, and that's the color you see on the cake. No food coloring, just raspberries!

The white chocolate dragonflies are just melted white chocolate discs that I stuck in a ziploc and piped onto parchment paper lining bent to let the wings stand up. Overall, I think the fresh raspberries in between the layers as well as in the icing really clinched the flavor.

Daring Bakers February 2011 - Coconut Panna Cotta with Pomegranate-Strawberry Gelee

The February 2011 Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Mallory from A Sofa in the Kitchen. She chose to challenge everyone to make Panna Cotta from a Giada De Laurentiis recipe and Nestle Florentine Cookies.

I am pretty certain I have made florentine cookies before, but I knew I'd never made panna cotta. There is always a subset of bakers who do alternative versions of the recipes, veganizing them, or making them gluten free. I decided this would be the month I would conquer agar agar, a sea vegetable that is often used in place of gelatin in recipes, making it vegetarian where gelatin is not.

Coconut Panna Cotta with Pomegranate-Strawberry Gelee
Well, it was a great idea. I could not find the agar agar powder anywhere, and figured agar agar flakes were close enough. Well, that's not exactly the case. Agar agar powder can be handled almost exactly the same way as gelatin, sprinkled over water, and so on. The flakes do not dissolve nearly as well. So for my first attempt I made panna cotta based on Giada De Laurentiis's panna cotta recipe, substituting coconut milk for the whole milk and adding a cinnamon stick to the simmering cream. The agar agar flakes just never really dissolved, in either the pomegranate-strawberry gelee or the panna cotta. The fruit mixture had more of a gelled texture, but I imagine that was the pectin naturally in the berries, rather than the agar agar setting anything up. It was a soupy, loose-pudding gloppy mess. The flavor was good, but it was difficult to get past the texture!

Troubles
Attempts #2 and #3 were even worse. This time I decided to try a chocolate panna cotta recipe from Epicurious.com, cutting back on the sugar as Mallory recommended in the challenge. At this point I had asked for help in the Daring Bakers forums, and Audax, baking genius, had recommended boiling the agar agar flakes in water for 12 minutes or so before adding them to the mixture. I tried this, keeping it at a rolling boil, and a skin of the agar agar would colllect at the sides and top of the mixture. 8 hours later, I had achieved the texture of melted ice cream. I went to the Eden Foods website for more advice, and they recommended the 12-minute trick, also suggesting you could grind the flakes with a coffee grinder before soaking in water. For attempt #3, I soaked the ground up flakes in water for 5 minutes before boiling, and I thought I was getting somewhere, because they soaked up the liquid like gelatin does. I tried combining it with the mixture I'd already made that hadn't set up, but that resulted in the melted ice cream plus gelatinous string mixture you see pictured above. Ugh, I threw it away. I didn't really succeed at my challenge to make this work, but I really want to try finding the powder. It just should not be this difficult. We won't even speak of the coffee gelee I tried to make, which never thickened beyond being very sweet coffee.

Florentine Cookies
At least the Florentine Cookies were good. I didn't have corn syrup in the house, but I did have Golden syrup, so I used that in place of it and it worked just fine. Next time I'd definitely pull back on the sugar a bit, and maybe add some orange zest to the cookie or the chocolate. The recipe the Daring Bakers used was from Nestle, so you can try it too!

Friday, February 18, 2011

Bakery Review - Termini Brothers Bakery - Philadelphia, PA

Sfogliatelle
I was first introduced to sfogliatelle by Alex Guarnaschelli on her show on Food Network called "Alex's Day Off," the Italian Dinner episode. Unfortunately, the Food Network posted for the pastries was severely edited and the reviews are terrible, so I wasn't about to try it, and wouldn't recommend you do either.

In the ChowHound forums, as I prepared my trip to Philadelphia, I kept running across mentions of the Termini Bros. Bakery, a south Philadelphia institution that also has a stand in the Reading Terminal Market, which would be a block or so from my hotel. I saw that they had highly acclaimed pastries, including the elusive sfogliatella, so I added that to my list of things to track down.

I went to the Market three times and never saw the pastry, because by the time I was there for lunch or in the afternoon, they were sold out. The last day I was there, I was in the Market for a committee meeting brunch, and snuck over to the Termini Bros. They had half a tray of sfogliatelle left, so I bought two to take home.

Sfogliatelle (is that plural? I confess my Italian isn't good) are interesting as pastries go. The outside is crisp with a bunch of thin layers, and it is filled with ricotta (the two I bought had a few pieces of citron inside as well). It is filling and not very sweet, but delicious. Definitely a distinct pastry, and I'm glad I got to try it.

My co-workers got to enjoy assorted cookies from Termini Bros., which included fig bars, pignoli, macaroons, and amaretti, all of which smelled delicious. They also had beautiful cakes and torrone in the case. If you end up in the Reading Terminal Market, or near any of their four other locations in Philadelphia and New Jersey, they are definitely worth a visit!